Ladder of Kotor and San Giovanni Fortress: the complete hiking guide

Two hikes above Kotor, one that most visitors do not know exists

Ask a travel guide about hiking above Kotor and you will get a description of the San Giovanni Fortress climb — the 1,350-step ascent inside the city walls that has become the most photographed viewpoint in Montenegro. It is excellent and completely worth doing.

But there is a second hike above Kotor that most guidebooks mention only in passing: the true Ladder of Kotor (locally called Kačju stepenice or the Serpentine), a historic zigzag mule trail that was the only road connecting the coastal town to the Montenegrin highlands for centuries before the modern switchback road was built. It continues past the San Giovanni summit, climbing through scrubland, abandoned stone villages, and a military fortification network to Krstac Pass at 940 metres.

This guide covers both routes — what to expect, how to combine them, and how to do either without misery.

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Part 1: The San Giovanni Fortress climb

What it is

San Giovanni (Sv. Ivan) is the main fortress above Kotor Old Town, perched at 260 metres on a limestone shelf directly above the city walls. The Venetians expanded and reinforced the fortifications you see now during their four-century occupation (1420–1797), though the original fort dates to Illyrian times. The walls descend from the fortress in two directions, flanking the Old Town before meeting the sea at the South Tower.

The route most visitors take follows the inside of the city walls from the Sea Gate, climbing stairways built into the wall fabric itself. This is a legally defined heritage path; the 8 EUR entry ticket covers both the fortress and the wall walk.

The ascent

• Distance: 2 km one way (along wall path)
• Elevation gain: 260 metres
• Steps: approximately 1,350, made of stone and heavily worn
• Time: 1–1.5 hours up; 45–60 minutes down
• Difficulty: Moderate — no technical climbing but sustained step-climbing with no flat sections

The path starts at the ticket booth near the Sea Gate or at a second entrance via St Mary’s Chapel (look for the small church against the wall on the road north of the old town). The route zigzags up through the wall fabric, passing defensive bastions and occasional rest ledges with benches.

At approximately halfway, you reach the Church of Our Lady of Remedy (Crkva Gospe od Zdravlja) — a small 15th-century chapel with a terrace and the first genuinely good views over the bay. Many visitors turn back here. Continue above it for another 30–40 minutes to reach San Giovanni itself.

The summit is a ruin — the interior of the fortress is open sky, with collapsed stone structures and panoramic views in every direction. On clear days you can see across the inner bay to Perast, and south toward Budva. The bay looks impossibly blue from here.

Early start is non-negotiable in summer

In July and August, the temperature on the sun-exposed steps exceeds 40°C by 11am. The stone reflects heat upward. There is no shade after the first 100 steps and no water on the route.

Start at 6am or 7am. At this hour the path is cool, the light is golden, and you will have the fortress largely to yourself. By 10am the fortress receives the full cruise ship crowds. By noon it is a serious heat risk for unprepared visitors.

Outside summer (May, June, September, October), a 9am start is comfortable. November through April, start any time.

Tickets and access

• Entry fee: 8 EUR (payable at the ticket booth at the Sea Gate or the upper Sea Gate area). Card accepted.
• Opening hours: Approximately 8am–8pm in summer; reduced in winter but the gate is often open earlier than advertised.
• The 6am hack: In early morning, the ticket booth is sometimes unmanned. You can enter and pay on the way down. Do not exploit this — the 8 EUR fee funds the path maintenance.

What to bring

Water (at least 1 litre per person in summer), sun protection, shoes with grip (the worn stone steps are slippery when wet), and a camera. Mobile phone battery for the camera — there are no charging points and the views deserve full battery.

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Part 2: The true Ladder of Kotor — the extension to Krstac Pass

History of the trail

For centuries before the coastal road existed, the only connection between the Bay of Kotor and the Montenegrin highlands was a series of zigzag mule trails cut into the limestone. The most famous was the route from Kotor to Krstac, used by traders bringing cheese, prosciutto, and livestock from the Njeguši plateau down to the coast. Venetian engineers documented it. Austro-Hungarian military maps show its exact course.

When the modern serpentine road (Trojica road) was built in the 20th century, the mule trail above fell out of regular use. It remains hikeable, partially restored by local hiking clubs, and passes through a landscape that has changed very little since the 18th century.

The route from the fortress to Krstac Pass

From the San Giovanni Fortress ruins, the trail continues outside the city walls, heading upward and northwest. This is where most visitors stop — the trail beyond the fortress is unmarked on standard tourist maps and requires navigating by occasional paint blaze marks and the logical line of the ridge.

• From San Giovanni to Krstac Pass: Additional 680 metres elevation, 4–5 km of trail
• Time: 2–3 hours up from San Giovanni; 1.5–2 hours down
• Full round trip from Kotor Old Town: 5–6 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate-hard. Sustained climbing on loose stone and scrubland trail. No technical sections but route-finding ability needed.

The trail passes through abandoned stone houses (the former village of Špiljari, depopulated in the 20th century) and beneath the remains of Austro-Hungarian defensive positions built during the First World War. The fortification walls crossing the ridge are eerily well-preserved — crenellations intact, firing loops still aligned toward the coast.

At Krstac Pass (940m) the trail meets a small road. From here you can:

• Return the same way (the most common option)
• Continue 2 km to Njeguši village, famous for smoked prosciutto and the birthplace of the Petrović dynasty. Njeguši can arrange a taxi back to Kotor (~25 EUR) or you can pre-arrange pickup.
• Descend by a different route to the town of Trojica and taxi back

Combined day plan

• 5:30am — Depart Kotor Old Town (north gate or Sea Gate)
• 5:45am — Begin fortress ascent
• 7:00am — Reach San Giovanni Fortress (photograph in morning light)
• 7:20am — Exit fortress walls and continue on Ladder trail
• 10:00am — Reach Krstac Pass
• 10:30am — Begin descent
• 12:30pm — Return to Kotor Old Town
• Afternoon — Recovery, Old Town exploration, lunch

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The Fortress walls walk: the inner route alternative

For those who want the views without the sustained climb, the city walls walk (accessible from the same 8 EUR ticket) follows the lower wall circuit around the Old Town perimeter at a gentler gradient. This takes 45–60 minutes and gives good views over the rooftops and bay without climbing to the fortress. It is not a substitute for the summit but a worthwhile alternative for those with limited mobility or time.

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Comparing the two experiences

	Fortress only	Fortress + Ladder (Krstac)
Distance	4 km return	12–14 km return
Total ascent	260m	940m
Time	2.5–3h	5–6h
Difficulty	Moderate	Moderate-hard
Route-finding	Easy (marked wall path)	Moderate (partial blazes)
Best for	Most visitors	Experienced hikers
Water needed	1 litre	2–3 litres

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Beyond the walls: guided canyoning nearby

If you want more adventurous terrain around Kotor, the Skurda River canyon lies immediately northeast of the Old Town — a short gorge with swimming holes and basic scrambling. The gorge is accessible independently but a guided canyoning trip adds safety equipment and the best sections.

Canyoning Škurda River — Kotor

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FAQ

Do I need hiking boots for the San Giovanni climb?

Hiking boots are not required but strongly recommended — the worn limestone steps become very slippery when wet, and the trail above the fortress to Krstac has loose stone. Trail runners work. Flat-soled sandals or city shoes are a bad idea, particularly in wet conditions.

Is the Ladder of Kotor (Krstac trail) well marked?

Partially. The wall walk up to the fortress is well-trodden and obvious. The trail beyond the fortress to Krstac has paint blazes at intervals but is not marked to the standard of Swiss or Austrian hiking routes. Download an offline trail map (WikilLoc has user-uploaded tracks) and check it works before you leave the Old Town.

Can I take a taxi to the fortress?

There is no road access to the fortress. The only ways up are on foot via the wall path (ticketed) or via the outer trail from the north of the Old Town (free but steeper and less maintained).

Is the fortress trail safe for children?

The fortress path has no barriers on the edge sections and some steeply worn stairs. Children under 8 should be actively supervised and hand-held on sections. The trail above the fortress to Krstac is not appropriate for young children.

What is the ticket price for the fortress in 2026?

The entry fee is 8 EUR per adult (as of early 2026). Check the Kotor Old Town website for seasonal updates — the price has increased incrementally each year since 2018. Children under 7 are typically free.

Can I do the Krstac extension with a local guide?

Yes. Several Kotor hiking guides offer the full Ladder of Kotor circuit as a half-day guided hike. This is recommended if you are unfamiliar with mountain navigation. Kotor-based adventure operators offer this alongside canyoning and kayaking trips.

What is the difference between the “Ladder of Kotor” trail and the road switchbacks?

The Trojica road — the famous switchback road visible from the bay — is a motorable road built in the 20th century. The historic Ladder of Kotor mule trail is a separate, older route that predates the road by centuries. They run roughly parallel but the trail is steeper and more direct. Do not confuse them.

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The fortress in context: what you are looking at

The fortification system above Kotor is more extensive than most visitors realise. What most people call “the fortress” — San Giovanni — is only one element in a chain that runs the length of the ridge. Knowing what you are looking at makes the climb more rewarding.

City walls: Three kilometres of Venetian-era defensive walls (12th–16th century, extensively rebuilt) descend from San Giovanni in two lines, encircling the Old Town before meeting the water at the Sea Gate and South Tower. The eastern wall, climbing directly uphill to the fortress, is the route most walkers take.

San Giovanni Fortress (Fortress of St John): The main fortification at 260m, dating originally to Illyrian times but substantially Venetian in its current form. The interior is largely ruined — collapsed vaulting, overgrown floors — but the walls and towers are mostly intact. The view from the top towers is the best in the bay.

Tvrđava Sv. Marija (St Mary’s Fortress): A smaller intermediate bastion visible roughly halfway between the city walls and San Giovanni. Used as an observation post rather than a primary defensive position.

Austro-Hungarian ridge fortifications (above Krstac): The trail above San Giovanni toward Krstac passes through a later defensive layer built during the First World War. The Austro-Hungarians controlled the coast; the ridge fortifications were designed to prevent allied landings and attacks from the hinterland. The crenellated walls at altitude are some of the most atmospheric walking on the entire trail.

The city walls walk (ground level): For those who want the heritage experience without the full climb, the city walls can be walked at a lower level — the circuit around the Old Town perimeter runs 45–60 minutes and gives good rooftop and bay views from bastions and towers at 30–60 metres elevation. Same 8 EUR ticket; purchased at the Sea Gate booth.

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Combining the hike with other Kotor activities

The San Giovanni climb alone fits well with a morning arrival and an afternoon boat tour:

• 7:00am San Giovanni climb (1.5–2h)
• 9:30am Old Town exploration (2h)
• 12:00pm Lunch
• 13:30pm Perast and Lady of the Rocks boat tour (2–2.5h)
• 16:00pm Free afternoon

The full Ladder of Kotor (Krstac extension) takes the whole morning and part of the afternoon — best planned as a dedicated hiking day with the Old Town and boat tour on separate days. See our one-day Kotor plan for the full sequencing logic.

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Beyond the fortress: other active options around Kotor

The fortress climb satisfies most visitors’ appetite for elevation, but Kotor is an underrated base for adventure activities across a wider radius.

Lovćen cable car: The cable car from the upper city (8 km by taxi) rises to approximately 1,000m at the top of the coastal range. A dramatically different mountain experience from the fortress climb — faster, less physical, and with views that extend across the entire bay system. Excellent for those who want altitude without sustained hiking.

Kotor: Official Cable Car Round-Trip Ticket

Kayaking the inner bay: A 2.5-hour kayak tour from the Kotor waterfront covers the bay at water level — a very different sensory experience from the aerial perspective of the fortress. Best in early morning when the water is flat. Suitable for most fitness levels.

Tara River rafting (full day): For those staying multiple days in Kotor and wanting a serious outdoor day, the Tara River canyon — the deepest river gorge in Europe — is 3 hours north by minibus. Full-day rafting trips leave from Kotor, handle all transport, and cover some of the most dramatic white-water in the Balkans. A long day (14+ hours door to door) but genuinely exceptional.

Kotor: Tara Rafting Day Trip