Petrovac

The Riviera’s quietest base

Petrovac na Moru sits 30 km south of Budva at the southern end of the Budva Riviera, and the distance is more than geographical. Where Budva brings Ibiza-style beach clubs and traffic jams on a Tuesday afternoon in August, Petrovac brings pine shade, a Venetian fortress the colour of old stone, and restaurants where the catch of the day is actually the catch of that day.

It is the town where Montenegrin families take their own summer holidays, which is a reliable indicator of quality-to-price ratio. Accommodation runs 20–30% below equivalent Budva options. Restaurants charge honest prices for grilled fish and local wine. The beach is short — around 500 m — but it is backed by mature pine trees that provide genuine afternoon shade, something virtually impossible to find on the sun-baked concrete strips of the northern Riviera.

Petrovac is not for everyone. There is no nightlife worth mentioning. The choice of restaurants, while good, is narrow. Transport links are less frequent than Budva’s. If you need a nightclub, a supermarket open at midnight, or a choice of twenty restaurants, Petrovac will frustrate you. If you want a quiet cove, a cold glass of local white wine, and an unhurried evening walk along a promenade lit by harbour lights, it is close to perfect.

The beaches

Petrovac beach is the main arc, roughly 500 m of fine pebble curving around a sheltered bay. The bay’s orientation and surrounding hills provide calm water even when wind picks up elsewhere on the coast — which makes it particularly good for kayaking, paddleboarding, and swimming with children. Pine trees line the upper beach, and the shade they provide is one of Petrovac’s genuine advantages over Budva’s sun-exposed strips.

Lučice is a smaller cove about 1 km south of Petrovac, accessible by a 15-minute walk along a coastal path or by sea taxi from the main beach. It has no sunbed rentals and no facilities — just clear water, rocks to jump from, and occasional sea-cave access at the northern end. The lack of infrastructure keeps it quieter than it would otherwise deserve to be.

Buljarica is a 4 km long beach of fine sand about 4 km south of Petrovac, largely undeveloped and backed by agricultural land. It is the largest beach in this part of Montenegro and one of the least crowded, partly because there are few hotels or restaurants within easy walking distance. Reach it by car or taxi (€6–8 from Petrovac).

The Venetian fortress

A small 17th-century kastel (fortress) stands on the rocks at the southern end of Petrovac beach, built during the Venetian period that shaped so much of the Adriatic coast from Dubrovnik to Budva. It is modest by comparison with Kotor’s walls or Budva’s Citadela — more of a watchtower than a full fortification — but the setting above the harbour is photogenic, and the interior has been converted into a seasonal restaurant. Watching the sunset from the fortress walls with the pine trees behind the beach in the foreground is one of the better free experiences on the Riviera.

Lazaret and Sveta Nedjelja island

Two kilometres north of Petrovac, the old Venetian quarantine station of Lazaret sits on a small promontory. The ruins date to the same period as the kastel and are accessible on foot from the coastal path. They are not dramatic — mostly walls and arches — but the coastal walk there and back passes some of the quieter coves south of Petrovac.

Sveta Nedjelja is a tiny islet 300 m offshore from Petrovac. A small chapel sits on top; local boats will take you across for a few euros. Historically significant as a pilgrimage point, practically useful as a swimming stop on the way back.

Water sports and boat excursions

The calm bay at Petrovac suits kayaking and paddleboarding, and morning conditions are typically ideal from June to September. For exploring the coves south of Petrovac — including Lučice and the smaller inlets that are unreachable on foot — a guided boat trip from Budva covering the full bay is a practical option.

Budva: Bay Boat Tour with Snorkeling & Sightseeing

Day trips from Petrovac

Petrovac’s relative isolation from the northern Riviera is easily bridged by car or bus.

Budva: 30–35 minutes north by car, around 40 minutes by coastal bus. Minibuses run several times daily in summer for €2–3. A full day in Budva — old town in the morning, Mogren beach in the afternoon — is easily done and returns you to Petrovac in time for dinner.

Bar: Montenegro’s main port city is about 30 minutes south. It has a large new town, a separate medieval Old Bar (Stari Bar) 4 km inland that is genuinely impressive and usually uncrowded, and ferry connections to Bari in Italy.

Skadar Lake: the drive from Petrovac to the Rijeka Crnojevića area of Lake Skadar takes around 45 minutes through the mountains. The views on the descent to the lake are exceptional, and the lake itself is best explored by boat.

From Budva: Skadar Lake Land & Boat Tour

Where to eat

The restaurant row runs along the promenade backing the main beach. For grilled fish, the local standard is sea bream (orada) or sea bass (brancin) at around €12–18 per fish, served with a salad and bread. Lamb from the inland villages appears on most menus as slow-cooked whole leg (jagnjetina ispod sača), cooked under a metal dome covered in embers. Budget €10–15 per person for a full dinner with wine at a local konoba; tourist-facing restaurants on the promenade charge €18–25.

Frequently asked questions

Is Petrovac suitable for families? Yes, particularly for families who want calm water and a relaxed pace rather than resort facilities. The beach is safe for children, the bay is sheltered, and the town is small enough to navigate easily. Families who need kids’ clubs and resort animation should look at Bečići instead.

How do I get to Petrovac without a car? Coastal minibuses connect Petrovac to Budva several times daily in summer, with the fare around €2. From Tivat or Podgorica airports, a taxi directly to Petrovac costs €40–60. Without a car, day trips beyond Petrovac itself are limited to what can be reached by bus or arranged tour from town.

Is anything open in winter? A handful of local cafes and one or two restaurants open year-round for residents. The beach infrastructure (sunbed rental, water sports, most restaurants) closes from around mid-October to early May. Petrovac in winter is genuinely quiet — not a tourist destination, but not unpleasant for a short visit.

Are prices really lower than Budva? In most categories, yes. Accommodation is typically 20–30% cheaper for comparable quality. Restaurants at local konobas are noticeably cheaper; tourist-facing restaurants on the promenade are closer in price to Budva. The beach itself has no mandatory charges.

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Related: Budva Riviera overview · Budva city guide · Montenegro south coast guide · Montenegro slow travel itinerary