Mojkovac: the quiet mountain town between two national parks

A mountain town that most visitors drive through without stopping

Mojkovac sits on the E65 highway corridor between Kolašin and Bijelo Polje, in the upper Tara River valley. Most travellers pass through it en route to somewhere else — Biogradska Gora to the south, Bijelo Polje for the Bosnia connection to the north, or Žabljak via the mountain road west. That transit mentality is a loss, because Mojkovac has a quiet authenticity that the more established mountain bases increasingly lack.

The town has no ski resort, no gondola, no upscale hotel strip. It has a central square with a war memorial, a handful of kafanas (local coffee-and-rakija establishments), a municipal market on weekends, and a setting in the Tara River valley that is genuinely lovely — the river is clean and fast here, the forested hills come directly down to the roadside, and the noise of the E65 fades within five minutes of walking off the main road.

For a traveller who wants a Montenegrin mountain base without the infrastructure of Kolašin or the tourist density of Žabljak, Mojkovac delivers.

Northern gateway to Biogradska Gora

The most important practical fact about Mojkovac is its proximity to Biogradska Gora National Park. While most visitors access the park from Kolašin (20 minutes from the south), Mojkovac provides a 30-minute northern approach via Podbišće that is perfectly adequate and noticeably quieter — you are unlikely to encounter a tour bus convoy on this route.

The combination of Mojkovac as an overnight base and Biogradska Gora as a morning visit works particularly well: arrive in Mojkovac in the evening, eat at a local restaurant, walk the Biogradsko Lake circuit the following morning before the day-trip groups arrive from Podgorica or Kolašin, and have the afternoon free.

Tara River — upper sections

The Tara River forms the backbone of the Mojkovac municipality, and the upper sections near town are used by some operators as alternative put-in points for Tara River trips. The upper Tara is calmer than the main Brstanovica section — better suited to introductory kayaking or family-appropriate floating — before the river deepens into the canyon further downstream.

Major Tara rafting operations depart from the Brstanovica section closer to the canyon (accessed from the Žabljak side), but some operators can arrange upper Tara trips from Mojkovac with transport to and from the put-in.

Full-day Tara Canyon rafting (transfers available) Tara Canyon rafting — Pljevlja section

Štitarica heritage — wood and gold

Mojkovac has an industrial history unusual for a Montenegrin mountain town. The Štitarica gold mine operated in the area from the interwar period through the socialist era, and the surrounding hills show traces of that extraction history in the form of processing buildings and tailings that the forest is gradually reclaiming. It is not a visitor attraction in any formal sense, but for travellers interested in the less-presented layers of Balkan 20th-century history, the drive through the Štitarica valley is interesting.

The wood-processing tradition continues — sawmills operate around Mojkovac supplying timber to the construction sector — and the town’s relationship with the forest economy gives it a working character distinctly different from the tourism-calibrated towns further south.

Where to stay in Mojkovac

Accommodation in Mojkovac is limited to local guesthouses and apartments. There are no international hotel chains and no purpose-built resort facilities. Expect simple, clean rooms with local hosts, prices in the €25–45 per night range, and genuine hospitality that does not come pre-packaged.

Booking in advance is advisable in July and August, not because Mojkovac is particularly busy but because the supply is limited. A phone call or email in Montenegrin or Serbian will often get a better response than international booking platforms, which have limited penetration here.

Getting to Mojkovac

From Kolašin: 35 minutes north on the E65 highway — straightforward and fast.

From Žabljak: The mountain road west via Šavnik connects to Žabljak in approximately 1h15 on a road that is scenic but slower. Check conditions in winter.

From Bijelo Polje (and Bosnia): 40 minutes south on the E65. This makes Mojkovac a natural first or last stop in Montenegro for travellers crossing from Bosnia.

By bus: The Podgorica–Bijelo Polje bus route stops in Mojkovac. Journey time from Podgorica approximately 2h15; from Kolašin approximately 40 minutes.

The Battle of Mojkovac — a defining moment

Mojkovac carries historical weight that gives it a different gravity from purely scenic mountain towns. In January 1916, the Battle of Mojkovac took place when the Montenegrin army held a line here against the Austro-Hungarian advance, sacrificing themselves to allow the Serbian army and government to retreat across Albania and reach the sea. The battle lasted two days, the Montenegrin forces were vastly outnumbered, and the town changed hands — but the strategic aim was achieved.

A memorial marks the site of the key engagement on the hillside above the town. The battle is remembered in Montenegro in the way that Thermopylae is remembered in Greece — a stand against overwhelming force that defined national character. Visiting the memorial adds context to the mountain landscape that the standard nature-tourism framing misses entirely.

Local food and kafana culture

Montenegrin mountain hospitality operates through the kafana — a hybrid of café, tavern, and social institution with no precise equivalent in western Europe. In Mojkovac, the kafanas around the central square serve thick coffee (domaća kafa), rakija (fruit brandy, typically plum or grape), and the staple mountain food: lamb on the spit, grilled veal, pita (phyllo pastry filled with cheese or spinach), and roasted peppers.

Prices are noticeably lower than in Žabljak or Kolašin — a full meal with drinks rarely exceeds €10–12. The atmosphere is local rather than performative: you are eating where the town eats, not where tourists are expected. This is either a feature or a drawback depending on your travel style.

Fish from the Tara (trout, in season) appears on menus and is worth ordering — the river running through town is as clean as any river you will eat trout from.

Combining Mojkovac in a route

Mojkovac slots naturally into several road trip itineraries:

• Podgorica → Kolašin → Biogradska Gora → Mojkovac → Žabljak: A two to three day drive with overnight stops in Kolašin and Mojkovac before the Žabljak base.
• Žabljak → Tara Canyon → Mojkovac → Biogradska Gora → Kolašin → coast: A full northern loop that covers the major mountain highlights heading south.
• Bosnia border crossing → Mojkovac → Biogradska Gora → Kolašin → Podgorica: For travellers entering Montenegro from the north, Mojkovac provides the first and most immediately charming stop.

Frequently asked questions

Is there anything to do in Mojkovac itself?

Beyond using it as a base and exploring its surrounding valley, Mojkovac is best enjoyed as a place to slow down rather than tick off. The Saturday market, the kafana culture, and the riverside walking paths reward travellers who appreciate texture over itinerary. If you need a programme of organised activities, Kolašin and Žabljak are better suited.

Can I visit Biogradska Gora and Tara Canyon from Mojkovac in one day?

The Biogradska Gora lake walk (1.5–2 hours) and a drive to the Đurđevića Tara Bridge viewpoint (1.5 hours from Mojkovac via Žabljak) are technically possible in one long day. More comfortable as two separate days with an overnight in Mojkovac between them.

Is Mojkovac safe and clean?

Yes. It is a quiet Montenegrin working town with low crime. The main hazard is the E65 highway traffic on the main street — the bypass road is preferred for walking.

Are there restaurants in Mojkovac?

Yes — several local restaurants serve grilled meats, fish from the Tara, and standard Montenegrin mountain fare (lamb, polenta, local cheese). Quality is reliable and prices are among the lowest in the highlands. Do not expect menus in English; pointing and a phrase book work fine.