Herceg Novi: complete travel guide

The overlooked gateway — and the bay’s most authentic town

Herceg Novi sits at the mouth of the Bay of Kotor, where the narrow Adriatic opening meets the broader seascape. Most visitors drive through it on the way to Kotor, which is their loss. Of the four main towns in the bay, Herceg Novi is the least polished, the most lived-in, and arguably the most interesting — a place with a functioning market, local cafes that have not yet been rebranded for tourists, and an old town that climbs dramatically up the hillside without a souvenir shop in sight.

The town was founded by the Bosnian King Tvrtko I in 1382. It has been Ottoman, Venetian, Austro-Hungarian, French, and finally Yugoslav — each layer leaving a fortification, a church, or a civic building. What you walk through today is an accumulation: the Kanli Kula (Bloody Tower) on the hilltop, the Venetian Forte Mare on the seafront, the Ottoman Sat Kula (clock tower) in the main square, and a cascade of terraces, stairs, and fragrant gardens tumbling down to the water.

Stari Grad — walking the old town

Herceg Novi’s Stari Grad (old town) is split between the upper town, clustered around Kanli Kula, and the lower town, centred on Trg Herceg Stjepana — the main square with its clock tower and open-air cafes.

Start at the clock tower (Sat Kula), dating to the Ottoman period. The square around it opens onto a promenade that drops toward the lower fortifications. The steps down from the square to Forte Mare take about 10 minutes on foot — short distances, but steep, and the town’s topography means almost every walk involves some climbing.

The Herceg Novi: Old Town Walking Tour provides a guided introduction to the key historical layers, including the clock tower, Forte Mare, and the city walls — recommended for a first visit to put the accumulated history in order.

Kanli Kula (Bloody Tower): Built by the Ottomans in the 16th century on the hill above the town, this circular fortress now hosts an open-air summer theatre. Its name comes from its history as a prison and execution site. The views from the walls take in the bay mouth, the Adriatic, and the Croatian island of Korčula on clear days. Entry approximately €2.

Forte Mare: The lower Venetian fort on the seafront, dating to the 15th century. Walk around it rather than through it — the external walls and gate facing the water are the most photogenic element. The interior houses rotating exhibitions in summer.

The mimosa festival — Herceg Novi in February

Montenegro’s coastal towns are mild in winter — Herceg Novi in particular has a microclimate sheltered from northern winds that allows mimosa trees (silver wattle) to bloom in February. The town’s Mimosa Festival runs for about a week in mid-February and includes parades, flower exhibitions, and local craft markets. It is one of the few genuinely local winter events on the Montenegrin coast.

If you visit in February: average temperatures are 10–13°C, the old town is entirely tourist-free, accommodation costs a fraction of summer rates, and the yellow mimosa flowers covering the hillsides are visually dramatic against the grey karst. Niche, but a specific reason to visit off-season.

Beaches near Herceg Novi

Herceg Novi does not have a central beach. The old town seafront is a promenade with concrete platforms and steps. For proper swimming, you need to travel slightly.

Žanjice: The best beach accessible from Herceg Novi, on the outer coast of the Lustica Peninsula. A pebbly cove with clear water, accessible by road (approximately 25 minutes, partly unpaved) or by seasonal boat from the Herceg Novi harbour. The boat taxi is the easier option and runs roughly June–September. Žanjice is noticeably less crowded than beaches on the Budva Riviera — a significant advantage in July.

Mirišta: Adjacent to Žanjice, a slightly smaller cove with equally clear water and fewer facilities. Walk over the headland from Žanjice (15 min on foot).

Njivice: 5 km east of Herceg Novi toward the Kamenari ferry, a pebble beach with beach bars and sun lounger hire. Convenient rather than exceptional.

Igalo: Immediately west of Herceg Novi, a long stretch of pebble beach historically associated with the Institut Dr Simo Milošević spa and rehabilitation centre. The beach itself is public and free; the spa institute offers treatments to non-guests for a fee.

Mamula Island — the contested destination

Mamula is a circular artificial island about 2 km off the coast at the bay mouth, built by the Austro-Hungarian Empire as a coastal fortress in the 1850s. During World War Two it was used as an Italian and then German prison camp — a history that makes it controversial. In recent years it has been converted into a luxury hotel, which created significant controversy in Montenegro and in the broader region given its wartime history.

The island itself is visually striking — the round fortress walls, a lighthouse, and clear Adriatic water surrounding it. Day-trippers access it on boat tours that typically combine Mamula with the Blue Cave. Access as a non-hotel guest is now restricted to the boat landing area.

The Kotor: Blue Cave Swim, Lady of the Rocks & Mamula departs from Kotor and covers both sights in a half-day.

Whether to visit is a judgement call given the history. The scenery is undeniably beautiful; the context requires acknowledgement.

Getting around from Herceg Novi

Herceg Novi is the westernmost town in the bay, which makes it both a gateway and slightly inconvenient for reaching Kotor quickly. The main options:

Kamenari–Lepetane ferry: The car ferry 15 km east of Herceg Novi crosses the Verige Strait in 5 minutes and saves approximately 30 km of driving around the inner bay. It runs every 15–30 minutes and costs approximately €5 per car. This is the standard way to reach Tivat and Kotor from Herceg Novi without driving the long way.

By bus: Regular buses connect Herceg Novi with Kotor (approximately 1h, €5 fare) and with Budva (1h30). The bus station is near the main waterfront. Buses stop at Perast and other towns on the bay road.

By boat: Seasonal boat taxis and excursion boats from the harbour connect Herceg Novi with Žanjice, Mamula, and excursions further into the bay.

Dubrovnik: 35 km from Herceg Novi to the Croatian border (approximately 20 min), then border formalities (30 min to 3h in summer depending on day and time), then onward to Dubrovnik city centre. Herceg Novi is the most convenient Montenegrin base for day trips to Dubrovnik — closer than Kotor by 30 km.

Nature around Herceg Novi — Orjen and the karst

The Orjen massif rises immediately behind Herceg Novi to 1,895 m — one of the highest ranges in the Dinaric Alps, with the highest average rainfall in Europe at its peak. In spring, meltwater feeds dozens of springs visible along the lower slopes, and wild iris grows in the meadows.

Several hiking routes start from the edge of town or a short drive uphill. The Orjen trails are not well-marked compared to national parks elsewhere in Montenegro, and the terrain is serious karst limestone. Go with a guide or with recent beta from local hiking clubs if you plan anything beyond the lower slopes.

The contrast between the Mediterranean waterfront and the alpine interior above Herceg Novi is striking — you can swim in 25°C water in the morning and be in snow-covered terrain an hour’s drive away.

Where to stay in Herceg Novi

Old town and hilltop area: Small guesthouses and apartments tucked into the medieval fabric. Limited parking, lots of stairs. The most atmospheric option.

Igalo (western approach): The strip of hotels between Igalo and the old town includes several larger beach hotels with spa facilities — popular with Serbian and domestic visitors. Cheaper than comparable properties in Kotor.

Topla district (eastern approach, toward Kamenari): A quieter residential area with apartments and smaller hotels. Good access to the ferry and to the bay road toward Kotor.

The general price level in Herceg Novi is 20–30% lower than in Kotor for comparable accommodation — which makes it worth considering as a base if you are travelling on a budget but still want bay access.

Food and drink in Herceg Novi

The local food scene is noticeably more local than in Kotor. The restaurants near the clock tower serve Montenegrin standbys — grilled meat (ćevapi, pljeskavica), seafood buzara, and the inevitable black risotto. The market (pijaca) near the main promenade has fresh produce, local cheese, and honey from the Orjen slopes.

Try kačamak if you see it — a polenta-like cornmeal dish mixed with local cheese and sometimes potato, served with cream (kajmak). It is the Montenegrin highlands food that fishermen families on the bay coast adopted.

Local wine: Plantaže produces the bulk of Montenegrin wine from vineyards near Podgorica. Vranac is the standard red. For something more local, look for wine from small producers in the Crmnica area near Skadar Lake, sometimes available in better restaurants.

Day trips from Herceg Novi

Dubrovnik: The closest major Adriatic city, 50–70 minutes by car including the border. A practical day trip in shoulder season (May–June, September–October) when the border crossing is under 30 minutes.

Kotor and Perast: Drive time to Kotor via the Kamenari ferry is approximately 35–40 minutes. Combine it with a stop in Perast (12 km north of Kotor) for a full day.

Njivice and Lustica Peninsula: The interior of the Lustica Peninsula, accessible from the Herceg Novi side, has the quietest roads in the bay and several secluded coves reachable by foot from parking areas.

Practical information

ATMs: Several in the main square and near the market.

Pharmacy: In the main promenade area.

Medical: A health centre (Dom zdravlja) handles routine medical needs. The closest hospital is in Kotor.

Parking: Limited and paid in the town centre. The easiest approach is to park at the edge of the old town area and walk in. Narrow streets make driving through the old town impractical.

Frequently asked questions about Herceg Novi

Is Herceg Novi worth visiting or should I go straight to Kotor?

Worth visiting, especially if you have 4+ days in the bay. It is the most authentically Montenegrin of the four main towns — less tourist infrastructure, more local life, better value for accommodation. For a short trip (1–2 days), Kotor is the priority; Herceg Novi works as a half-day add-on via the Kamenari ferry.

How do I get from Herceg Novi to Kotor?

The fastest route is via the Kamenari–Lepetane car ferry: drive 15 km east to Kamenari, take the 5-minute ferry to Lepetane, then 15 km more to Kotor. Total journey approximately 40 minutes. Without the ferry, the drive around the bay is 65 km and takes about 1h15.

What is the beach situation in Herceg Novi?

No central beach in the old town itself. Igalo (1 km west) has a long pebble beach. The best swimming near Herceg Novi is at Žanjice on the Lustica Peninsula — accessible by boat taxi in season or by a 25-minute drive partly on unpaved road.

When is the mimosa festival?

Typically the second or third week of February. The exact dates shift year to year — check the official Herceg Novi municipality website (hercegnovi.me) for the current year’s programme.

Can you cross to Croatia from Herceg Novi?

Yes. The Debeli Brijeg border crossing is approximately 35 km from Herceg Novi (20 min drive), then border formalities, then Dubrovnik. In summer (July–August), budget 1–3 hours for the border. Early morning crossings (before 8 am) are consistently faster. The border is open 24 hours.